The Search Is On

We’re coming to the end of our three-year sojourn in France, and it looks like my wife’s company may ask her to return at some point in the future. We had a chat about what that would mean, and we both agreed that if it does happen, we’d like to live somewhere a bit less… busy, let’s say, than Paris.

To that end, we’ve been visiting smaller cities within “occasional commuting distance” of Paris: places where her office is still accessible but the pace of life is more manageable. So far, we’ve done day trips to eight cities by train, scoping out the feel of the town, the shopping, the amenities, the neighborhoods, and the general vibe.

Here are some thoughts on the places we’ve visited:

Le Mans

Population: ~200k | Train to Paris: ~55 min | Cost of Living: Low | Green space: Good

Affordable and well-connected to Paris with some intact Roman walls and medieval streets, but parts of the city felt a little rough. I did a bit of digging and found that crime is a bit higher here than most other places on this list.

Medieval houses in Le Mans, France

Tours

Population: ~300k | Train to Paris: ~1 hr | Cost of Living: Moderate | Green space: Very good

A lively university city with a growing expat presence. Walkable, attractive, and with more sunshine than Paris. Seems to have a solid mix of livability and culture without feeling overwhelming.

Tours Hôtel de Ville

Angers

Population: ~300k | Train to Paris: ~1.5 hrs | Cost of Living: Moderate | Green space: Excellent

Pleasant city center dominated by the Château d’Angers. Feels clean, green, and family-friendly. Parks like Parc Balzac and Lac de Maine provide plenty of natural green space. Bonus point: Angers has a Ligue Magnus hockey team, which would give me an excuse to get out of the house once in a while.

Gardens below the walls of the Château d’Angers

Orléans

Population: ~280k | Train to Paris: ~1 hr | Cost of Living: Moderate | Green space: Good

A city that clearly takes pride in its history: Jeanne d’Arc, the Hundred Years War, and more. The city core is attractive, though some surrounding areas are more built up and less inviting. It doesn’t seem to have a strong English-speaking or international community.

Medieval French banners above Rue Jeanne d’Arc in Orléans, France

Chartres

Population: ~135k | Train to Paris: ~1 hr 15 min | Cost of Living: Low | Green space: Good

A quiet town best known for its incredible Gothic cathedral, which towers over everything else, both literally and culturally. Vibe is more like a commuter town or stop on the tourist trail than a place with much daily buzz.

Chartres Cathedral, Chartres France.

Poitiers

Population: ~130k | Train to Paris: ~1.5 hrs | Cost of Living: Low | Green space: Very good

A university town with medieval architecture and a modest cultural scene. It’s said to have a vibrant student life, but it was fairly quiet when we visited. The architecture gives it character, but parts of the city felt a bit industrial and gritty. I didn’t take many photos there because there really wasn’t much to look at since the château was closed off behind fences for restoration.

Parc de Blossac, Poitiers, France

Amiens

Population: ~190k | Train to Paris: ~1 hr 15 min | Cost of Living: Low | Green space: Good

A calm city with beautiful canals and remarkable floating gardens (hortillonnages – French link). Its cathedral is one of the largest in France. Much of the historic city was destroyed in the World Wars, so despite its long history it’s fairly modern looking. A new TGV link to CDG airport is reportedly in the works. Also, another bonus point since they also have a Ligue Magnus hockey team, which is more than Paris can say, so… go figure.

Amiens Cathedral, Amiens France.

Lille

Population: ~1 million | Train to Paris: ~1 hr | Cost of Living: Moderate | Green space: Good

A much bigger city, close to the Belgian border. Probably the most high-energy and urban of the places we visited. We happened to be there during a spring festival weekend, and the public spaces in the city were packed. Affordable by Paris standards, but not especially quiet. Feels more like “Paris-lite” than a small-city retreat.

Grand Place, a large central square in Lille, France

Closing Thoughts

We haven’t made any decisions yet, but some favorites are starting to emerge. Each of these places has its own strengths, quirks, and trade-offs. The challenge now is figuring out not just where we could live, but where we think we would enjoy spending the next few years.

There’s A Fish At The Door

Today is the day that I learned about the “fish doorbell” in Utrecht, Netherlands.

You might think this is some common thing that was tagged with a quirky name, but you’d be wrong. (Don’t worry about it, I’m often wrong.) It is exactly what the name says: a doorbell (well, not a bell, exactly, but stick with me) that tells lock operators at the Weerdsluis lock on the Oudegracht that fish are waiting to head up or downstream, so they should open the lock to allow the fish to transit.

How do the fish know to ring the doorbell? Don’t be silly. Fish can’t ring doorbells! That’s where you come in!

Point your browser to this link and if you see a fish, click on the button to ring the doorbell.

Crowdsourcing FTW!

Never Forgive Henry Symeonis, That Knave!

So, first of all, I rarely have an original thought, so props for this one go to Kevin Underhill, author of “The Emergency Sasquatch Ordinance” as posted on his blog, loweringthebar.net.

For over five centuries, from 1264 until 1827, students at the University of Oxford were required to swear an oath as part of their Master of Arts degree ceremony. This oath included a commitment that they would “never agree to the reconciliation of Henry Symeonis.”

Well that’s interesting, but who the hell is Henry Symeonis?

Turns out, Henry Symeonis was a wealthy 13th-century Englishman from Oxford, who was involved in the murder of an Oxford University student in 1242. Alongside other townsmen, he was fined £80 and banished from the town by King Henry III. Despite receiving a royal pardon in 1264, the University of Oxford harbored a lasting grudge, mandating for over 500 years that graduates swear an oath never to reconcile with him. This peculiar tradition persisted until 1827, long after the original offense was forgotten.  

I’m sure there’s a lesson in here but exactly what it is, I haven’t quite worked out yet.